In the town of Brunswick Georgia in the month of
October a very special celebration of the folklife and folk heritage
roots of Brunswick stew occurs at the Brunswick
Stewbilee Festival and Cookoff.
The Brunswick Stewbilee
began locally by the Brunswick/Golden Isles Chamber of Commerce
in the late 19th century as a means of having fun with Brunswick
Georgia's claim to the origin of this iconic Southern stew, to
attract visitors interested in heritage tourism, and to
establish a professionally conducted cooking competition
with award trophies given to stew masters by a select team of
judges and by ballot in "the people's choice award."
The Stew Wars
The Brunswick Stewbilee is well known for
it's challenge in the 1980's to the state of Virginia to come to
Georgia for a decisive head-to-head Brunswick stew cookoff
between the best stewmasters Virginia could muster and those
from Georgia to decide which state had rights to the claim
that Brunswick stew originated there. This preciptated the Brunswick
"Stew Wars", featured in Southern Living magazine. (The
Virginia legislature went so far as to pass a resolution
declaring Brunswick County Virginia as the "Official Home of
Brunswick Stew" followed by placing state historical markers
indicating so. This prompted the Georgia legislature to pass a
similar resolution declaring Georgia as the "Place of Origin" of
Brunswick stew. And as the smoke gathered from each battle it
became harder and harder to separate the contemporary folklore and
the prattle and fun-poking from the more deeply-rooted and
substantial folk heritage roots of Brunswick stew in Georgia and
Virginia.
The Brunswick Stew Folklife
Documentaries
Documentary folklife video
artist and producer, Stan Woodward, decided to see if the old
adage, "where there's smoke there's fire" would hold true in
the case of the Brunswick stew wars. In his first documentary on the
subject - Brunswick Stew: A Virginia Treasure - Stan
brought attention to the existance of a well-established
culture of "stewmasters" and stew crews that exists in Virginia,
North Carolina and Georgia who maintain the cooking
of ancestral recipes in huge black iron wash-pots at community
events, holidays and special occasions. Stan discovered that the
ritual cooking of brunswick stew - and many other kinds of folk
heritage stews - was widespread among rural communities in the
South. "These were ways that folks whose ancestors were raised on
farms honored the memory of those who worked the soil and endured
hard times and counted on the black iron washpot to provide harty
sustenance from whatever meats and vegetables were available,
Woodward reported.
"The field research
and shooting of the Virginia Brunswick stew story carried me down to
Georgia where I shot a great amount of footage documenting what
proved to be unique folk heritage roots of the Georgia Brunswick
stew tradition. I knew at the time that it would be important to
shoot as much documentation of traditions and stories of origin as
possible, thinking that one day I would be able to build on this
archival video collection and produce the Georgia story of Brunswick
stew. Clearly it's folk heritage roots ran deep into the
vernacular culture of rural Georgia all the way from the Atlantic
sea islands across South Georgia and up into the mountains along its
western border with Tennesee and North Carolina."
When Stan arrived in Brunswick, Georgia
he found a kindred spirit in Woody Woodside - director of the
Brunswick-Golden Isles Chamber of Commerce. As Stan interviewed
Woody about the Stew Wars with Virginia and shot footage of the cast
iron memorial stewpots that adorned the Visitors Centers and claimed
that the Brunswick sea islands held the secrets of the origins
of the stew, his research revealed that there was substance to the
imbedded Brunswick stew folklore of the Sea Islands that needed
documentation. Folklorist, Dr. John Burrison of Georgia State
University, who had worked with Stan on the Virginia Brunswick stew
story, suggested approaching the Georgia Arts Council for
a grant to tell the Georgia Brunswick stew story.
BRUNSWICK STEWBILEE: A Folklife and Folk Heritage
Foodways Festival
"I think at the point when I approached
Woody in 2002," Stan says, "with the idea that the Chamber (and
ultimately the Golden Isles Arts and Humanities Association)
sponsor a grant to the Georgia Arts Council to fund a folklife
documentary that authenticated the folk heritage roots of
Georgia Brunswick stew and connected them to the Brunswick
Stewbilee, a process began that has impacted the
Stewbilee. It has grown from simply another food cook-off festival
to a genuine folk heritage foodways festival. With the
completion of Brunswick
Stew: Georgia Named Her; Georgia Claims Her" and it's
broadcast statewide over Georgia Public Broadcasting (June 26,
2005), the Brunswick Stewbilee is now firmly in touch with the
authentic and diverse folk heritage roots of the Georgia Brunswick
stew tradition."
The Kiwanis Club of Brunswick and it's
new team of sponsors for the Stewbilee is
gearing up for an expanded "Rockin'
Stewbilee" and is in great position to distinguish
the expanding Stewbilee festival by identifying it as
... a folklife festival, where the folk
heritage roots of Georgia Brunswick stew are celebrated, on
display, and can be tasted and eaten!
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